Gasherbrum I is the 11th highest mountain in the world, and the first stage of my K2 expedition.
My visa arrived and I flew to Islamabad. Then a flight to Skardu, a half day jeep ride to Askoli, and a 100km trek to Gasherbrum base camp at 5,150m. No acclimatisation since Everest. Based on everything I'd told ChatGPT about my recovery, it didn't fancy my chances physically. But mentally I was 100% ready.
We rested one day, then pushed eight hours up the glacier through the night to Camp 1. The next morning we walked across the glacier towards Camp 2, the peak right in front of us. A fast tracked approach to one of the world's most challenging mountains. Ambitious? Absolutely. But this is the intensity I live for.
The Japanese Couloir
Above Camp 2 is the Japanese Couloir, a steep face of ice and rock leading to Camp 3. Gasherbrum I is supposed to be one of the easier 8,000m peaks. There are no easy 8,000m peaks.
We climbed for around six hours to reach the top of the couloir. There we were confronted by a wall of snow four metres tall and maybe 400 metres wide, hanging directly above us. If it collapsed, it would avalanche into the couloir and take everyone in it down the mountain. There was no way around it, no safe way over it, and no way to know when it might give way. Our team deliberated while we clung to the face, snow pouring down on us from climbers above.
The decision was to turn around. We descended and rested at base camp for a few nights.
Gasherbrum II
Then we went back up the glacier to Camp 1 for Gasherbrum II. We were already worried about avalanche risk, and the first night proved us right. We woke, looked out of the tent, and saw half a metre of fresh snow. It wouldn't be safe to climb for days. We could wait at Camp 1 for the snow to pass, or leave. Time was running out and the K2 window would open soon. We left.
That was the end of Gasherbrum I and II. An incredibly tough year for everyone climbing these mountains.
The mountain decides.